Showing posts with label Salento. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Salento. Show all posts

October 24, 2011

Two Days in Salento with Katie

When my friend Anna visited last spring we spent a weekend in the small mountain town of Salento, and I loved it so much I just had to go back!! Initially, Katie and I wanted to go to the coast during her visit to Colombia, but prices just got too high, so we planned a trip to Salento and I am so so so glad. Salento is in the coffee region of Colombia, and while getting there requires about 5 hours of time on buses, the end is so worth it and Katie agreed :)

We left on Thursday morning, armed with backpacks, charged ipods, books, and lots of snacks. I hate being hungry while traveling and then having to eat crappy food, and Katie just hates being without snacks, so we made sure to pack a bag that just included our snacks.  After pretty uneventful bus rides, we arrived in Salento. We dumped our stuff at La Serrana hostel, where Anna and I also stayed, and set off to explore Calle Real, the six or so blocks of excellent shopping opportunities in Salento.

Not wasting any time, we made some great first day purchases, including some mugs that Katie found for her brother and sister-in-law, multiple pairs of earrings, a scarf & jewelry box for me, and even a bell for Katie's mom!! She buys her mom a bell in every place she visits and we were lucky enough to find an adorably decorated one with the name Salento on it! Around dinnertime we met up with some co-workers who were also spending time in Salento. We climbed to the top of a look-out point over the city, enjoyed a sunset photo shoot and had a round of happy hour drinks before heading back to the hostel.

The main plaza of Salento.

Katie and I at the entrance to La Serrana hostel.

My new jewelry box!

The main reason I chose La Serrana hostel again was because of their awesome family style meals with vegetarian options every night! Thursday was burger night and I enjoyed a veggie burger while Katie had the real thing and we both loved the homemade french fries.  After that it was early to bed as we were setting our to hike in the Valle de Cocora the next morning.

 We wasted no time getting right into things with iced  coffees a this cafe in Salento. The man there was nice enough to make Katie and I our very own batch of iced coffees with lactose free milk for Katie! 

Enjoying night one in Salento as we overlook the town at dusk. 

The next morning we met my friends back in the main plaza of Salento and set out for the hike around 9:30 am, once again armed with lots of water and many snacks. The hike takes about five hours to complete, but the scenery is so gorgeous and diverse the whole time that you really don't notice all five hours. We started out in the open valley where the wax palms loom tall overhead and the green mountains surround your view. After about an hour and a half we entered the forest part of the hike, which is filled with muddy paths and many bridge crossings. Katie had an interesting time observing some of the Colombian "bridge" building tactics since she is an engineer back home in Wisconsin.

After another hour and a half or so we reached the Acaime Lodge, where for about $1.50 USD you get a hot drink and a place to sit and enjoy your snacks! We rested our weary legs, chatted with some fellow hikers and psyched ourselves up for the next 30 minutes of the hike. The next 30 minutes were pretty much entirely uphill at a steep slope, with very little relief for the calves. One switchback after another as you climb higher and higher until you arrive at a mountaintop farm, high above the forest and even the clouds! 

From here we began our descent downhill and back through the valley. The descent only takes about an hour, but I felt uneasy when my friend Stetson called to say he had arrived in Salento and the rain had been falling steadily there for over an hour. Assuming we needed to hurry up so as not to be caught in a downpour, Katie and I started moving even faster, deviating from the path a bit so as to traverse the valley faster. Deviations or not, we still did not make it, and the raindrops starting pouring down on us. The last twenty minutes of our hike were completed in the pouring rain with no covering and lots of yelling back and forth between ourselves bemoaning the situation. We finally arrived back at the starting point, drenched from head to toe and in desperate need of a hot shower.

Little did we know, but our hostel was out of hot water. We managed to wash off the mud from our legs and arms, but neither one of us wanted to brave a cold shower, so we spent the night bundled up in as many of our warm clothes as possible and playing card games with Stetson.

Hiking in the Valle de Cocora with Courtney, Megan and Scott.

 One of many bridge crossings! Hi Katie!

At the top! Rough 30 minutes behind us and here we are above the clouds! 

Even while running through the valley in a (failed) effort to miss the rain I snapped a few photos of the wax palms.

So chilly. 

The next morning we set off for Salento in search of more shopping and to figure out a plan for the rest of our trip. The current plan was to head for the hot springs of Santa Rosa de Cabal, but we had been receiving reports of landslides in the region and along the highway, making it impossible to travel there. We had pretty much resigned ourselves to just spending an extra night in Salento when my friend Samantha called to say she was on her way there and the people at the hot springs claimed everything was fun. Not knowing what to believe, but really wanting to see the hot springs (and make good on my pre-deposit), we packed our bags and headed to Santa Rosa!

Katie and Stetson relaxing along Calle Real.

June 28, 2011

A Weekend in Salento with Anna

When Anna came to visit me in Colombia, I wanted to give her a chance to see as much of this wonderfully diverse country as possible. Our plan included included time in the city of Cali, where I live, a weekend in the coffee region in the little town of Salento, and a kayaking adventure to the Pacific Coast.

After all the craziness of the end of the year we packed our bags for the quiet mountain town of Salento. Highly recommended to me by co-workers, I knew this would be a great first trip to make with Anna. The bus ride to Pereira (which normally takes three hours) for some reason took five hours on this particular day, but after locating a connecting bus to Salento we settled in at La Serrana Hostel around 6 PM.

Looking down the main street for artisan shopping of the main plaza in Salento.

The main form of transportation around Salento - jeeps!

Located a short 10-15 minute walk outside Salento, La Serrana is a gorgeous eco-hostel with an on-site family style restaurant, friendly common areas and great information about the area. We settled in for some fantastic veggie burgers on Friday night, met a few of the other guests, and called it an early night before our hike in Valle de Cocora the following morning!

Outside the main gate to La Serrana.

Family-style dining area. Enjoying some eggs & toast for breakfast with fresh squeezed OJ!

I am down to stay anyplace that save wine bottles and corks for decoration.

Post-hike we gathered our energy to browse the shops in town. Salento is known for great artisan shopping and we definitely took advantage! I found a great painting in purple-ish hues of the Valle de Cocora, Anna bought a lamp and we both snagged a few pairs of earrings! We made it to dinner with our remaining pesos and sat down for a traditional Colombian meal that included patacones (fried plantains), chicken, rice and wine. Our post-dinner entertainment took us back to the main plaza to watch the championship game for La Liga, the Colombian soccer league. As I told Anna, you really haven't lived until you have watched Colombians watch soccer, and this game didn't disappoint! They just get so into the game and I had as much fun watching the people around me as I did watching the game!

Shopping street.

A delicious dinner starting with wine and patacones.

Anna with her new lamp!

On Sunday we finished the weekend with a trip to a local family coffee farm run by the most adorable 75 year old man ever, named Don Elias. We walked to his farm, about 45 minutes downhill from La Serrana, and he gave us a tour. This was my second coffee tour in Colombia (the other one was near Manizales), but I still learned lots of new info from Don Elias and throughly enjoyed the cup of home grown, home brewed, organic coffee he gave me at the end! I even bought some to take home to Kelsi and to my dad. Delicious!

Welcome to the coffee farm of Don Elias.

Anna follows Don Elias on the tour.

Drying out the coffee beans to prepare for roasting.

Our handsome tour guide!

With the weekend coming to an end we headed back to Cali to un-pack and re-pack for the next adventure!

June 26, 2011

Hiking in Valle de Cocora with Anna

When Anna and I headed off to Salento for the weekend we didn't just plan to hang around the pretty hostel or look at pretty doorways, but go on a hike!

My co-workers raved to me about the Valle de Cocora outside Salento, so I knew we needed to go there. The hike is famous because of the tall wax palms (the national tree of Colombia) that line the valley.

Anna and I started out from the main plaza in Salento with water and snacks in hand at about 9 AM on Saturday. A jeep took us and a few other hikers to the small hamlet of Cocora, about 30 minutes from Salento. After a quick conversation with some girls who had encountered a map of the hike, we found the starting point and set out on our way!

Immediately the rolling green hills, majestic trees and quiet country setting had me in love with this hike. After about an hour in the valley the scenery changed a bit as we headed into more of the forest around the river (Rio Quindio). Several bridge crossings and a few hills later we arrived at the Acaime Lodge for some snacks and hot chocolate. We ended up seeing lots of other hikers there who were also staying at our hostel so we compared hiking notes before continuing to the next stop on the map, La Montana (The Mountain).

Well, the mountain it was, because the next .8 km felt like 5 km because they were straight uphill. We were warned about this going into it, but this part of the hike still felt especially difficult because we were at altitudes about 9,000 ft. Finally arriving at La Montana, three hours from the start of our hike, we looked out over the surrounding hills only to discover that we couldn't see very far in the distance. We were so high that the clouds blocked our sight lines! A quick picture of the elevation sign later and we started down the road back into the valley. The walk down, while hard on the knees, was the best part of the hike yet!! The valley on this side was even more striking that the beginning and we couldn't help but stop for some classic jumping photos :)

A surprising 45 minutes to an hour later and we were back at the start of the trail! Turns out when you have a road to walk on, lots of catching up to do, and a straight downhill path, time flies! We caught a jeep back to Salento just as the rain started to fall and headed to the hostel in search of a hot shower to ease our limbs :)

The basic game plan for our hike.

On the trail!

One of the first bridges we had to cross - make of logs thrown across the river.

Anna captured this bridge on camera and I just love how the picture turned out!
Another bridge!

Happy hiker :)

Looking over the hills and valley...through the cloud layer.

FINALLY made it to the top (La Montana) at 2,860 meters (9,383 ft!).

The wax palms coming through the valley. The pictures really cannot do the 360-views justice. The sight of all these trees was stunning!

Anna makes the next add for Colombian tourism!

June 25, 2011

Photo Essay: Doorways of Salento

When Anna came to visit last week we traveled by bus about five hours from Cali to the quiet mountain town of Salento. Set in the famous Eje Cafetero, the coffee region of Colombia, this town is famous for its slow pace of life, rolling hills of coffee, and colorful markets/buildings. Strolling the streets of town I loved seeing the bright, colorful doorways pass by. Here are just a few of the ones we saw...









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